WEN’s Ending the Cosmetics Cover Up campaign which highlights the thousands of potentially harmful chemicals used in skincare products and toiletries generates many enquiries from those seeking out alternative products. In response WEN has invited cosmetics and toiletries companies to complete a questionnaire on the sustainability of their manufacturing processes, with a view to their inclusion on WEN's Careful Beauty Checklist - revised and updated for 2009 with support from the Sheepdrove Trust.

Only companies which as a minimum state that their products are free from both parabens, and synthetic fragrances are included on the checklist. The company responses can be viewed or printed by clicking on the Careful Beauty checklist links above. Inclusion on this checklist does NOT represent an endorsement by WEN of the companies or their products. More.

Parabens and synthetic fragrances were selected as the two basic criteria for inclusion as they are among the most common found in many products. Parabens are one of the most widely used preservatives, are oestrogen mimics and have been implicated in a number of health issues. Synthetic fragrance, often labelled parfum, can contain between 50 and 100 chemical fragrances and may indicate the presence of phthalates linked to reproductive damage. (see separate cosmetics briefing, and our Pretty Nasty report on phthalates). It is worth noting that skin may react to natural as well as synthetic ingredients.

Full list of criteria and explanations available here.
New criteria for 2009
	Free from bleaching agents Bleaching agents, such as hydroquinone and mercury, are added to skincare products to help lighten skin. Although banned in the EU they are still manufactured in Asia and Africa. These bleaching chemicals are highly toxic – hydroquinone can cause brown patches on skin and is an irritant, mercury can cause serious poisoning as well as cancer and exposure to both have been linked to ochronosis.
	Detergents are alternatives to soap and are derived from petroleum based products. Some commonly used detergents are; • Ethoxylated Alcohols (EA) including PEG, SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) and • Amines and Derivatives including Diethanolamine (DEAs) such as cocamide, lauramide, myristamine and oleamide DEA, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, triethanolamine (TEA), TEA-lauryl sulphate, monoethnolamine (MEA) including cocamide, linoleamide and steramide MEA). Many of these are known for their foaming action and surfactant functions (easy mixing of oily and water-based substances) in daily use products such as shampoo, conditioners, facial cleansers, hair dyes, lotions, soaps, baby shampoo, baby wipes, shaving cream and acne treatment. Detergents can dry skin and hair, cause irritations to eyes and skin, and can react with impurities and nitrate preservatives, some of which may cause cancer. DEA causes liver and kidney tumours, can damage testicles and reduce sperm activity. Many of the EA detergents are potentially contaminated with or break down into cancer causing agents. Research demonstrates a strong relationship to toxicity to kidneys and nervous system.
	Lanolin, also known as wool fat or wool wax, is used as an oil or alcohol and is derived from a sheep’s oil glands. A natural emulsifier and emollient, (which prevents moisture from being lost), lanolin is used extensively in cosmetics as a due to its waxy texture and the idea that it can make skin soft and smoother. Lanolin is found in moisturisers, especially those for lips. It is found in shampoo, ointments, face washes and creams, lip balms, hand creams, cold creams and face powders. Lanolin can be an irritant and can cause chapping of the lips. If the cosmetic product does not use certified organic lanolin then there is a risk of exposure to traces of DDT, dieldrin, lindane and other neurotic pesticides. Additionally, lanolin is no longer used in pure form because of the allergy-causing reactions.
	Phthalates are used as a plasticizer and a solvent in cosmetics. They may be listed as dibutyl, dithylhexyl, DEHP, DBP to name a few chemical variations. Some phthalates may not appear on a label as they are components of ‘fragrances’, ‘parfum’, ‘perfume’ and other synthetic fragrances. Phthalates are used in the production of plastics, packages, cosmetics and other household items. Research strongly demonstrates that DEHP is linked to adverse affects to male and female reproductive system and the EU has banned the use of some phthalates in PVC toys as well as listing it as a ‘substance of very high concern.’ Phthalates are found in a number of products that are fragrant or have a scent to them eg. ‘parfum’. Parfum can contain more than 100 different ingredientswhich do not need to be identified on a product . A previous study of name brand cosmetics found phthalates in nearly 80% with none of them listing phthalates on the ingredients list. Phthalates can be found in cosmetics such as nail varnishes, deodorants, fragrances, hair gels and sprays, hand and body lotions.
	Synthetic preservatives are those ingredients of an unnatural source or origin used as a preservative system in products. Organic certifiers may allow specific preservative systems within a product, however those will not be included in this section. Due to the fact that parabens are one of the most widely used preservatives they are the primary exclusion on the list. Formaldehyde may be hidden within products and may be released when products break down or react with another product. It can be found as a preservative in various cosmetics, soap, nail hardeners and varnish. Ingesting formaldehyde can cause internal bleeding, severe abdominal pain, coma and death. Formaldehyde is a proven neurotoxin, genotoxin, carcinogen and skin irritant. It is involved in DNA damage and inhibits its repair and in conjunction with other chemical ingredients can produce mutagenic and carcinogenic effects. Preservatives are the second most common cause of allergic and irritant reactions to cosmetics.
	Retinol, natural vitamin A, is added to cosmetics for marketing reasons . Other forms of retinol include tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and retinyl and are used in moisturizers and night creams with the suggestion of offering anti-ageing effects. Used as ingredients in anti-aging creams, these chemicals were developed for and continue to be used as acne treatments. Predominantly found in anti-ageing skin creams and moisturisers as well as psoriasis and acne care. When exposed to large doses of retinol during pregnancy research shows that it may harm the development of the embryo. Side effects associated with topical tretinoin are skin irritation, dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity and with persistent use, skin damage and accelerate ageing. Adapalene and tazarotene both indicate similar side effects from usage, but add redness, burning sensation and rash.
	This criterion was included to take into account the popularity of Carbon Neutral companies, the overuse of packaging materials and the chemicals that can leach from the packaging to the product. To clarify this addition, WEN does not endorse carbon offsetting as a manner of combating climate change.

Inclusion on the checklist does NOT represent an endorsement by WEN of the companies or their products. WEN’s approach would be first and foremost to question the need for many of the products marketed, and secondly to encourage consumers to be discerning, and to use less of the products they do buy. What you can do: Arm yourself with our cosmetics briefing, check labels, and contact the companies yourselves for verification of their claims. Also contact retailers to encourage them to stock alternative brands.